Over the past month or two, I’ve been learning about plastic recycling with a friend at a local makerspace. We decided to start out with HDPE as a nice beginner’s material, because it melts at less than 200C and tends to be fairly nontoxic. We’ve tried a few different techniques now, and we’ve learned a lot about what doesn’t work.
This is an exciting field and we hope to make a decent press for forming 3mm and 6mm-thick HDPE sheets soon, but our early designs have shown us some key difficulties to be aware of if you are planning to start recycling plastics on your own. And I’ll mention this later, but please research what you plan to recycle ahead of time and avoid plastics which might release hazardous fumes. As you will see, I am not an expert.
Our first instinct was to imitate an injection-molding press, and we started by scavenging some large heating elements from a Goodwill-sourced griddle. It consisted of four ~13-Ohm coils arranged as two parallel banks, each consisting of two elements in series. That meant an effective resistance of 13 Ohms, or a bit over 9 amps at the mains 120V which it was more or less directly connected to.
We wound up clipping the heating coils out and scavenging some of the crimped and heat-insulated wiring, strapping them to a smooth-bore metal pipe, and then soldering or spot-welding the four coils back together in their original 2×2 arrangement. Temperature monitoring is all well and good, but this was a first attempt; we just wired the coils across a 2-prong plug, and flipped a surge suppressor on and off to control the heat. A handheld infrared thermometer gave us a rough indication of the tube’s temperature, and we aimed for 350-400F to melt the HDPE.
Among the cheap gadgetry that constantly spews forth from the spawning pits of consumer electronics, sometimes you can find a gem. The W1209 is an interesting board which is designed to act as a thermostat which can also switch a relay when certain temperatures are reached. It is used in everything from rice cookers to yogurt machines to people who want their A/C to only turn on when it’s hot out. Originally they shipped with a fairly powerful STM8S003F3 microcontroller, and they cost less than $1.50 each.
Even so, their popularity has inspired the usual imperfect cloning process, so chances are that a board you buy from ebay, Aliexpress, Taobao, or Amazon today will need some touching up before you will be able to reprogram it. In this tutorial, we will replace the microcontroller and add a few missing capacitor/resistors. Then we’ll upload a simple test program to test that the microcontroller and board both work. So here is an example of what is probably the worst possible knock-off that you could fear to get, with missing or faulty parts highlighted:
Well, that’s life. You try your best, and then someone comes along and kicks you in the teeth. But let’s make some lemonade and take the opportunity to learn about fixing cheap-o knock-off circuit boards!
In previous tutorials, I covered how to use the STM32 line of microcontrollers to draw to small displays using the SPI communication standard. First with software functions and small ‘SSD1331’ OLED displays, and then with the faster SPI hardware peripheral and slightly larger ‘ILI9341’ TFT LCD displays. Both of those displays are great for cheaply displaying data or multimedia content, because they can show 16 bits of color per pixel and have enough space to present a moderate amount of information. But if you want to design a very low-power application, you might want a display which does not need to constantly drain energy to maintain an image.
Enter ‘E-Ink’ displays, sometimes called “Electrophoretic Displays“. As the name implies, they use the same basic operating principle as techniques like Gel Electrophoresis, which separates polarized molecules such as DNA based on their electric charge. Each pixel in one of these displays is a tiny hollow sphere filled with oppositely-charged ink molecules, and they are separated between the top and bottom of their capsules to make the pixel light or dark. The ink remains in place even after power is removed; I think that they are suspended in a solid gel or something. Modern E-Ink modules sometimes have a third color such as red or yellow, but this post will only cover a humble monochrome display.
Previously, I posted a tutorial about writing SVG files by hand to create simple patterns for a laser cutter to produce. But as I noted at the end of that post, writing that sort of file by hand is not a great solution. It is difficult to make a design that can be modified later, since SVG files don’t appear to have a good way to store variables yet.
So in this tutorial, I’ll go over the process of writing a simple Python script to create the same sort of “divided grid box” as in the previous SVG-writing tutorial across a wide range of dimensions. Then I’ll demonstrate how to use it to create a small 4-cell AAA battery holder out of something that isn’t plastic:
While “3D printing” a case allows you to add curves and small overhangs to hold the batteries in place, these simple laser-cut boxes can only have perpendicular edges. But I’ve found that using the sorts of spring contacts that you find in most commercial battery cases provides enough pressure to hold the batteries in place, at least until you hold the case upside down and knock it against something to pop them out.
Plus, 3D printing is comparatively slow; a battery case of this size would take between 30-60 minutes to print out on a Prusa i3 running at high speed, but a CO2 laser can cut out these parts in about 60 seconds. You do need to glue the pieces together, but if you adjusted the scripts to account for the “kerf” of your particular laser/material, you might be able to make them press-fit. Anyways, let’s get started!
It’s great to be able to write programs for a chip’s evaluation boards, but the real strength of microcontrollers is their ability to act as a low-cost, low-power “brain” for larger designs or products. And along those lines, I’ve been writing a few tutorials about bootstrapping some basic ‘bare metal’ STM32 projects using an
STM32F031K6 “Nucleo” board sold by ST.
That’s a great way to get started and test ideas out, but what if you want to try your hand at building a robot, or a home automation widget, or some other sort of complex machine? It’s nice to avoid huge messes of breadboards and wires once you have a basic prototype working, and these days it only costs a few dollars to get a small custom circuit board manufactured. The catch is, they usually take a few weeks to arrive and you need to provide the design. Still, the boards that we design in this tutorial will cost less than $2 each.
In this tutorial, we will use a suite of free software called KiCAD to produce a small example board using the same basic
STM32F031K6 chip that I’ve been writing programming examples for. Our board won’t be quite as nice as ST’s, and it will require an external USB device for programming and debugging. But on the other hand, our board will be smaller and cheaper, and you will be able to put the same design onto more holistic boards with other parts for your kickass robot or electronic vehicle or <insert dream here>:
The design files described in this post are all available in a Github repository, if you want a reference to follow along with.
In a previous post, I wrote about designing a ‘breakout board’ for an
SSD1331 OLED display with 96×64 pixels and 16 bits of color per pixel. With the hardware already put together, this post will cover writing a basic software driver for the displays. To keep things simple, we will talk to the display using software SPI functions instead of the STM32’s SPI hardware peripheral.
If you want to skip assembling your own boards, you can also buy a pre-made display such as this one sold by Adafruit. They have also written a library for these displays which works with several common types of microcontrollers, if you just want to use them without worrying about the display settings. But if you want to try understanding this sort of communication at a lower level, read on!
Since many small microcontrollers – including the
STM32F031K6 discussed in this example – don’t have 12KB of RAM available to store a 96×64 display at 16 bits per pixel, I’ll use a framebuffer with just 4 bits per pixel in this example (3KB), and map those 16 values to a palette. This example builds on the first few “Bare Metal STM32 Programming” tutorials that I’ve been writing, so here is a Github repository with the entire example project (including supporting files) if you don’t want to read those.