Blog for my various projects, experiments, and learnings


Keeping Up With the Moorses: Learning to Use STM32G0 Chips

Microcontrollers are just like any other kind of semiconductor product. As manufacturers learn from customer feedback and fabrication processes continue to advance, the products get better. One of the most visible metrics for gauging a chip’s general performance – and the basis of Moore’s Law – is how large each transistor is. Usually this is measured in nanometers, and as we enter 2019 the newest chips being made by companies like Samsung and Intel are optimistically billed as 7nm.

The venerable and popular STM32F1 series is more than a decade old now, and it is produced using a 130nm process. But ST’s newer lines of chips like the STM32L4 use a smaller 90nm process. Smaller transistors usually mean that chips can run at lower voltages, be more power-efficient, and run at faster clock speeds. So when ST moved to this smaller process, they introduced two types of new chips: faster ‘mainline’ chips like the F4 and F7 lines which run at about 100-250MHz, and more efficient ‘low-power’ chips like the L0 and L4 lines which have a variety of ‘sleep’ modes and can comfortably run off of 1.8V. They also have an H7 line which uses an even smaller 40nm process and can run at 400MHz.

Now as 2018 fades into history, it looks like ST has decided that it’s time for a fresh line of ‘value-line’ chips, and we can order a shiny new STM32G0 from retailers like Digikey. At the time of writing there aren’t too many options, but it looks like they’re hoping to branch out and there are even some 8-pin variants on the table. I could be misreading things, but these look like a mix between the F0 and L0 lines, with lower power consumption than F0 chips and better performance than the L0 chips. The STM32G071GB that I made a test board with has 128KB of Flash, 36KB of RAM, and a nice set of communication peripherals.

STM32G0 breakout board

Simple STM32G0 breakout board

So what’s the catch? Well, this is still a fairly new chip, so “Just Google It” may not be an effective problem-solving tool. And it looks like ST made a few changes in this new iteration of chips to provide more GPIO pins in smaller packages, so the hardware design will look similar but slightly different from previous STM32 lines. Finally, with a new chip comes new challenges in getting an open-source programming and debugging toolchain working. So with all of that said, let’s learn how to migrate!

Basic MSP430 Hardware Design

Evaluation boards are great, but eventually you’ll want to make a design which needs to fit in a smaller space, or which uses a type of chip that doesn’t have a cheap board available. When that happens, you’ll often want to design a PCB. And it seems like most microcontrollers have similar basic hardware requirements; decoupling capacitors on the power pins, maybe a pull-up resistor and filtering capacitor on the reset pin, and a few pins which are used for debugging and programming. The MSP430 is no different, although it does have a few small quirks to be aware of.

And while I haven’t found a cheap dedicated USB device for programming MSP430 chips, you can use the debuggers built into TI’s Launchpad boards to program and debug a custom board using their “Spy-Bi-Wire” protocol. So in this tutorial, I’ll go over a basic circuit design for an MSP430FR2111 chip. It comes in a TSSOP-16 package with 3.75KB of FRAM and no Flash memory.

Simple MSP430FR2111 breakout boards

A simple example MSP430FR2111 breakout board design.

I’ll also go over the differences between programming a ‘pulsing LED’ example for the MSP430FR2111 and the MSP430G2553 that we used in the last two examples, as well as how to connect a Launchpad board’s debugger to upload programs to the custom board. So let’s get started!

Making a Retro Wall Clock

It’s good to know what time it is, and once you work out how to use a RealTime Clock module, making a clock display seems like a natural next step. 7-segment LED displays used to be the go-to way to display time digitally before LCD and OLED screens got so cheap, and I thought it would be fun to make a more modern take on them with diffused multicolor LEDs for the actual lighting. I would like to write a post about drawing to traditional 7-segment digits using shift registers, but this project uses the easy-to-wire ‘Neopixels’ that we all know and love.


The one on the bottom doesn’t know about daylight savings, but you get the idea.

You’ll need a few materials for this project if you want to follow along:

  • Access to a laser cutter and a 3D printer.
  • About 6 x 12″ of 1/8″-thick ‘frosted’ acrylic, to diffuse the LEDs. (About 150 x 300mm, 3mm thick)
  • Enough plywood to make a clock face for the front and back; I wound up using about 500 x 200mm each.
  • 58 individually-addressable RGB LEDs. (28 sets of 2 for each segment of the 4 digits, and 2 more for the colon dots.)
  • A DS3231 or similar realtime clock module.
  • A microcontroller to run everything; I used an ATMega328 on an “Arduino” nano board to keep the code simple.
  • Craft supplies: solder, soldering iron, glue, hot glue gun, wire, etc.

For the LEDs, I cut lengths off of a reel of LED strip that I ordered off Amazon; I think it used SK6812 LEDs and had 30 LEDs / meter. For the two dots of the colon, you can also buy small single-LED boards that are about 10mm in diameter and usually have WS2812B LEDs. I didn’t run into any problems stringing SK6812 and WS2812B LEDs together with Adafruit’s “Neopixel” library, but caveat emptor.

Recycling HDPE: What Doesn’t Work

Over the past month or two, I’ve been learning about plastic recycling with a friend at a local makerspace. We decided to start out with HDPE as a nice beginner’s material, because it melts at less than 200C and tends to be fairly nontoxic. We’ve tried a few different techniques now, and we’ve learned a lot about what doesn’t work.

This is an exciting field and we hope to make a decent press for forming 3mm and 6mm-thick HDPE sheets soon, but our early designs have shown us some key difficulties to be aware of if you are planning to start recycling plastics on your own. And I’ll mention this later, but please research what you plan to recycle ahead of time and avoid plastics which might release hazardous fumes. As you will see, I am not an expert.

Our first instinct was to imitate an injection-molding press, and we started by scavenging some large heating elements from a Goodwill-sourced griddle. It consisted of four ~13-Ohm coils arranged as two parallel banks, each consisting of two elements in series. That meant an effective resistance of 13 Ohms, or a bit over 9 amps at the mains 120V which it was more or less directly connected to.

We wound up clipping the heating coils out and scavenging some of the crimped and heat-insulated wiring, strapping them to a smooth-bore metal pipe, and then soldering or spot-welding the four coils back together in their original 2×2 arrangement. Temperature monitoring is all well and good, but this was a first attempt; we just wired the coils across a 2-prong plug, and flipped a surge suppressor on and off to control the heat. A handheld infrared thermometer gave us a rough indication of the tube’s temperature, and we aimed for 350-400F to melt the HDPE.

Our first attempt at a plastic-melting tube. It's probably mostly safe.

Our first attempt at a plastic-melting tube; the heating elements are the thick copper-coated wires, and the beige wires connect directly to a 2-prong wall plug.

The W1209: A (sometimes) STM8-based digital thermostat

Among the cheap gadgetry that constantly spews forth from the spawning pits of consumer electronics, sometimes you can find a gem. The W1209 is an interesting board which is designed to act as a thermostat which can also switch a relay when certain temperatures are reached. It is used in everything from rice cookers to yogurt machines to people who want their A/C to only turn on when it’s hot out. Originally they shipped with a fairly powerful STM8S003F3 microcontroller, and they cost less than $1.50 each.

Even so, their popularity has inspired the usual imperfect cloning process, so chances are that a board you buy from ebay, Aliexpress, Taobao, or Amazon today will need some touching up before you will be able to reprogram it. In this tutorial, we will replace the microcontroller and add a few missing capacitor/resistors. Then we’ll upload a simple test program to test that the microcontroller and board both work. So here is an example of what is probably the worst possible knock-off that you could fear to get, with missing or faulty parts highlighted:

Problematic W1209

W1209 that needs fixing

Well, that’s life. You try your best, and then someone comes along and kicks you in the teeth. But let’s make some lemonade and take the opportunity to learn about fixing cheap-o knock-off circuit boards!

Your Own Hardware: Using KiCAD to Design a Minimal STM32 Development Board

It’s great to be able to write programs for a chip’s evaluation boards, but the real strength of microcontrollers is their ability to act as a low-cost, low-power “brain” for larger designs or products. And along those lines, I’ve been writing a few tutorials about bootstrapping some basic ‘bare metal’ STM32 projects using an STM32F031K6 “Nucleo” board sold by ST.

That’s a great way to get started and test ideas out, but what if you want to try your hand at building a robot, or a home automation widget, or some other sort of complex machine? It’s nice to avoid huge messes of breadboards and wires once you have a basic prototype working, and these days it only costs a few dollars to get a small custom circuit board manufactured. The catch is, they usually take a few weeks to arrive and you need to provide the design. Still, the boards that we design in this tutorial will cost less than $2 each.

In this tutorial, we will use a suite of free software called KiCAD to produce a small example board using the same basic STM32F031K6 chip that I’ve been writing programming examples for. Our board won’t be quite as nice as ST’s, and it will require an external USB device for programming and debugging. But on the other hand, our board will be smaller and cheaper, and you will be able to put the same design onto more holistic boards with other parts for your kickass robot or electronic vehicle or <insert dream here>:

multiple board renders

Left: A board like the one you’ll design in KiCAD. Right: OSHPark’s renders of the front and rear of the board.

The design files described in this post are all available in a Github repository, if you want a reference to follow along with.

DIY OLED Display Boards: SSD1306 and SSD1331

OLED displays are excellent solutions for low-power, high-visibility UIs that don’t need to depict much detail and can be smaller than a square-inch or two. These days, they are cheap and available enough to be viable options for the hobbyist:

display modules

Top: The display panels as they arrive in the mail. Bottom: Boards with the circuits described in this post – the panels are glued to the other side.

These are two small display panels which you can find on Taobao, Alibaba, or eBay in small quantities for roughly $2-4 each. The one on the left is a 96×64-pixel SSD1331 16-bit color display. The one on the right is a 128×64-pixel SSD1306 monochrome display where each pixel is either ‘off’ or ‘on’ – typically ‘on’ is a white or blue color. Some of them have a row of 16px along the top set to yellow, but each pixel is still only one color.

In this post, we will walk through the circuitry (although not the code) required to control these displays using a microcontroller, including circuit schematics for laying out a ‘breakout board’ in your preferred EDA program – I used KiCAD, and I’ll also provide a link to those projects if you don’t want to design a new board.